Home

We awoke to the sounds of aircraft heading in and out of Stanstead, and trains sounding their horns - a lot! We readied the dogs and set off down the towpath and across freshly harvested hay fields on yet another beautiful sunny morning.

Angela and dogs ready for a sprint start

 

 

A distant folly

We breakfasted and then packed up, ready to move off on the last leg of our trip. Angela walked the dogs while I cruised along the river, with the dogs looking over anxiously, wondering where their home was going! We regrouped at Hunsdon lock where workman were finishing off re-pointing the brickwork around the lock. When we passed through here 3.5 weeks ago, there were no bollards to tie up to, but it was good to see them back in place this time. Hunsdon is a particularly beautiful stretch of river with a lovely house and gardens overlooking the lock and then a wooded stretch of river beyond.

A flower covered widebeam boat

Wooded river in Hunsdon

Soon we were out in open fields following the A414 closely for a bit before veering away towards Parndon Mill, another beauty spot.

Angela operating Parndon Mill lock

Unusual and pretty bridge by Parndon Mill

Once through the lock, we were only 1 lock away from home. We passed a group of young people in double canoes having lots of fun and asking us for a tow.

Today's ducks!

After a short distance, we came across Pentargon again, and called out to see if Shaun was around. He was and so we stopped for a chat. It was time to move on again, and Shaun insisted on jumping on his tiny bicycle and going ahead to the lock to operate it for us - a truly generous and interesting man. When we got to the lock, one of the boats from the CanalAbility project was leaving the lock, and came alongside is to allow the crew who had operated the lock to get back on board. This took a little time as the captain struggled to get his wide craft into position. Just as the crew were boarding, a cruiser came past heading into OUR lock! We suggested that perhaps they should let us go first - they said they didn't realise we were waiting for the lock? They then suggested that we should go in together, but when I pointed out that it would be at their risk since we might crush them, they backed off! Shaun then helped us through and we covered the last few yards to the marina without further incident. Angela then jumped off and opened the swing bridge across the marina entrance and Banjo slid into her home berth.

Banjo safely moored

Can we go home now?

Then began the long process of tidying up and offloading everything. It was good to see a number of people we know in the marina and exchange stories about the past few weeks boating activities. After about half a dozen trips back and forth to the car laden with bags, we were done and could drive our now very grubby car back home.


We have had a brilliant time on this trip, meeting loads of new people, meeting loads of friends and relatives, seeing some new places and some old favourites and enjoying some amazing weather. Thank you for following our exploits and for your comments.

Hopefully we will be back afloat before too long.

Bye for now

Angela and Graham (and Anushka and Lola)

The End is Nigh

Another hot day started with a walk around Waltham Common with the dogs. It was getting hotter by the minute and the dogs charged about for a bit but after a while, enjoyed exploring the shade.

Dogs enjoying a good sniff about

We had breakfast and then I went off to the nearby shop to get a few provisions while Angela made Banjo ship shape. I returned after 20 minutes with only Coke and fruit juice but no water or milk - we may be on dry cereal tomorrow morning!

We were moored right outside the venue for the Olympic white water venue

We set off and almost immediately caught up with a small narrowboat moving incredibly slowly. We were not far off the next lock and so decided to stay behind them, share the lock and then move off ahead of them. As it turned out, they thought the same, since they only had a small engine and were happy to drift along enjoying the scenery. So, we went through the lock and then said farewell to them. The next lock was set against us and by the time we had closed the top gates and emptied the lock, the slow boat caught up with us again. We repeated this for another couple of locks, and enjoyed one trip down the weed hatch, before finally leaving them behind as they intended to moor up.

I finally gave in to the heat and donned a silly hat

Soon we arrived in Broxbourne, which has a row of very nice houses, and lots of small hired motor boats, large trip boats and pedalos to avoid.

Broxbourne houses and beautiful gardens

Angela jumped ship at Cartagena Lock and walked along the towpath with the dogs, to meet up again at Dobbs Weir Lock.

Dogs looking surprised to see me passing by

Amazing array of vegetation

We made our way through Dobbs Weir and passed the location of our first mooring of this trip, just over 3 weeks ago, starting to feel a bit sad that tonight would be our last of this trip. We decided to stop at the Fish and Eels pub for a drink, and a prawn cocktail and were fortunate to be able to moor directly outside.

Lola and Anushka enjoying the shade under our table at the pub

Refreshed, we headed for the last lock on the River Lee before turning onto the River Stort. It was good to be back on the Stort which is a really pretty river, twisting and turning beneath willows and passing through some lovely countryside. We passed through the narrow bridges in Roydon and then reached Roydon Lock. There was a boat on the lock landing which appeared to be waiting to the lock, and so we drifted about waiting for it to move off so that we could land. After a few minutes a delightful Irish man appeared and told us that he would operate the lock for us as a group of children were using the lock as a swimming pool and he wanted to fill it up again for them. He did just that and said that we should look him up as his boat has a web page - http://www.pentargon.webs.com/. After we left, the crowd of damp boys who had been patiently waiting leaped back in.

Roydon swimming baths beautifully captured by Angela

We decided that we would stop for the night out in the country between Roydon and Hunsdon, only a short distance upstream from here, hoping to use a spot we have used a few times before.

How on earth did this get through the low and narrow bridges in Roydon?

Alas our favourite spot was taken by another boat, but we found another place a short distance further along. The only problem here is that the railway is pretty close and must have a "sound horn" sign somewhere close!

Tonight's mooring

Banjo's solar lights look quite striking here in the country

So, tonight, having watched the final of the Apprentice, we will bed down for our last night. We have 3 locks left to pass through before we reach the marina, which will not take long, and will then have to tidy up and take everything off the boat etc. It will be good to be home, but a little sad to leave our compact little maritime world.....

An Unusual Day

Today started like most others - up early to walk the dogs in brilliant sunshine. The marshes looked fresh and a little misty this morning, but the sun was burning the mist off rapidly. We decided to set off early with the aim of mooring early again and enjoying a peaceful afternoon - how wrong we were!

Angela modelling a damsel fly on her hat

It seems damsel flies are attracted to flowers

We pushed off carefully since the river around the boat this morning was a mass of weed. We drifted through the weed until we were in clear water and then accelerated up to 3mph rapidly! Almost immediately we had weed around the prop, but reversing to and fro freed us and we started moving reasonably. As we passed through Tottenham, the river started to clear and we were making good progress. We arrived at Stonebridge lock where we intended to use the facilities to empty and fill the boat as appropriate. The automatic lock had been broken when we came down this way 3 weeks ago, but was planned to be fixed in 2 weeks so we were hopeful. Alas, they were still working on it and so it would be the manual lock which is a nightmare to operate. However, we knew that Canal and River Trust personnel were on hand to help, and they have a big adapted drill to wind the hydraulic pumps. Wrong again, their drill had been stolen, but thankfully two guys did all of the winding for us and after about half an hour, we were through and heading for the facilities block. We met a guy (Dave) working on his boat, and who moved a mates boat to make room for us to land. We started to fill the tank using the incredibly feeble tap - it was going to take a long time since our tank was getting pretty low. Dave turned out to be a tree surgeon, and we have his number for future reference. His boat was really unusual but interesting with beautifully carved woodwork and handmade coloured glass windows. We gave up with filling the tank after about an hour and decided that we probably had enough to see us through the next couple of days. We moved off but after only a short distance, we were flagged down by two policemen who asked us to look out for someone floating in the water! A short distance further, and we were flagged down on the other side of the river by another policeman, and asked to stop. We could see activity on the bridge up ahead, and it didn't look good.

Police had just pulled someone out of the river.

We tied up and just ahead of us, there was police tape across the towpath and nobody was allowed to pass. A pair of boats which were tied together pulled in behind us, and we gathered round the policeman who had stopped us to ask what was going to happen. He was unable to tell us anything other than someone had been pulled from the river and was receiving medical treatment. More and more police, firemen and ambulance teams arrived, followed by an air ambulance. A number of people came along the towpath and met the news that they could not continue with a variety of reactions! We decided to settle down for the duration since there was nothing else we could do.

Air ambulance departing empty

Tea party

Distant sad scene

It became apparent that the battle to save the poor soul who had been pulled out of the water was over and he had died. Slowly the fire and ambulance services departed leaving the police and a succession of specialists photographing and examining the scene and the body. Finally he was taken away, the police cleared up and after thanking us for our patience, told us we were free to go on our way. It was a sad business and from what we could gather from various people who came along, it seems that the casualty who was thought to be east European, had been in the water with 2 others when they lost sight of him. We said goodbye to the people we had come to know quite well (Maxine, Dominic, Laura and Kai), and set off again.

Crows practising for a parade

Birds with a love for this particular pylon

Geese sitting just outside Pickets Lock, where signs ask you not to let the geese into the lock

We teamed up with another boat heading upstream which reduced the time and effort to pass through the locks, and even though we had lost a lot of time, we ended up well ahead of our tentative schedule and are moored tonight in Waltham Abbey.

Tonight's mooring

Shadowy figures on boat ahead of us having a BBQ on the roof of their boat

It was a beautiful sunset tonight

Tomorrow we will head up the remainder of the River Lee and then onto the River Stort, reaching pretty close to home and the end of our trip.

Return to the Marshes

We awoke this morning and found that everything was where it should be. We had been warned last night by a passer by, that we should lock everything up because otherwise 'they' would take it! We went to bed last night with some trepidation, but as is so often the case, it only takes one bad experience to give somewhere a bad reputation. If we listened to all the stories we hear, we would never have left Harlow! We started the day with a walk around part of Victoria Park in Hackney. A large and beautiful place which was made even better by the continuing sunshine. After a fairly long walk, we returned to the boat for breakfast, and then a final walk before setting off again.

Lola and Anushka wearing uniform, get ready for their maiden voyage

Victoria Park sculptures and fountain

Geese sheltering from the heat

Pagoda occupied by crows

Demonic ducks

We took in our wheelbarrow wheels and cast off, initially reversing a short distance back up the Regents canal to the junction with the Hertford canal (known as Ducketts), turned and went under the bridge into Ducketts. There were quite a few boats moored here which contrasts with the last time we were here when this stretch was deserted. We passed the Ginger Bunny - a boat we had shared a couple of locks with yesterday, and then arrived at the first lock on Ducketts. It was set against us, and while we filled it ready for us to enter, another boat arrived. It turned out to be a floating bar boat which we had seen doing a roaring trade yesterday outside Victoria Park. They joined us for the 3 locks in Ducketts, and were an energetic Australian couple who manoeuvred their boat a little haphazardly, this being their first trip! They were good company but we left them behind when we reached the end of Ducketts and headed upstream on the River Lee.

Sharing a lock with the bar boat

Jesus with three of his desciples

Weed continued to be a problem today with frequent stops for trips down the weed hatch. On the last occasion before mooring for the night, we were passed by a weed dredger pulling weed out of the river - A BIT LATE I thought to myself! We progressed slowly up the Lee, partly because of the weed, but also battling quite a strong current which seems odd given the lack of rain for quite a while? We reached Hackney Marshes where we had moored in the rain on the outbound trip, and decided to moor here if we could find a space. We did, and so we tied up very early, and set about hacking back the undergrowth to get off the boat and drive in mooring pegs. Angela donned rubber gloves and did a grand job of clearing a path for the dogs to get on and off while I flailed around with an old rusty saw, hacking down nettles and thistles. I have never had as many stinging nettle stings as I have on this trip! We took the dogs for a long walk around the marshes and then made ourselves at home on the bank with sunshade, chairs and cold beer.

Dr Livingstone I presume

It was incredibly hot again and we kept moving ourselves to stay within the shade of our small umbrella. We have seen loads of damsel flies on this trip but have failed to capture any on film - they land on the boat and take off again almost immediately, continuing their random flight pattern. Today however, one came floating by on a bank of weed and we got it!

A cute damsel showing no signs of distress!

We moved our chairs and sunshade onto the back of the boat as the sun moved round, and where the boat offered us a little more shade. It was a lovely peaceful afternoon, watching the world go by - pretty perfect really.

A swan enjoying one of our stale ciabatta rolls

Angela and dogs enjoying a bit of shade

Tomorrow we continue up the Lee through Tottenham and on towards Enfield.

Into East London

Another really hot night ended with another hot morning. We walked the dogs and then breakfasted under the shade of the bimini before packing up and heading back to Little Venice. We wanted to visit Portobello Market, but as far as we could tell, the street market featured in the film Notting Hill, doesn't operate on a Sunday. So, we decided to head for Camden, the market and the tourists!

Little Venice in the sunshine

We passed through Little Venice and headed past all the highly desirable moorings in Maida Vale, and into the 272 yard long Maida Hill tunnel.

Heading under the cafe into the tunnel

The exit looks a long way off

Blinding bright light as we near the end

We emerged, without incident bar a few drips on our heads, into a different world. At Little Venice the grand Union Canal changes into the Regents Canal, and the scenery changes significantly on the other side of the tunnel as you enter Regents Park. The first section of the canal passes grand houses and embassies with beautifully manicured gardens, and passes under what is popularly known as 'Blow up Bridge'. A barge carrying gunpowder was passing under this bridge when it spectacularly exploded, taking the bridge with it. The bridge was subsequently re-built, but the columns were replaced back to front, and you can still see the indentations made by the ropes of horse drawn barges, but they are on the wrong side of the columns!

A canoe tour party

Grand Regents Park residence

Blow Up Bridge

The scenery changed again as we entered London Zoo, passing between the Snowdon Aviary and animal pens.

The Snowdon Aviary

A short distance further took us to Cumberland basin, where the canal takes a right angle turn to the left, in front of a fabulous Chinese restaurant boat.

Entering Cumberland Basin with camera crew at front of boat

Harriet in the sunshine

Angela in the sunshine and me asleep at the 'wheel'

Dan in the sunshine

As we turned the sharp corner which takes you into a short tunnel, we met a wide beam coming the other way, prompting a rapid reverse from us. We then entered and met a small boat with musicians playing to their passengers.

Musical boat

These guys were making beautiful music

Moving on into Camden, we hoped to find a mooring, but they are very popular and today was no exception. So, we decided to head into the first of the 3 locks here, and possibly walk back if we could find anywhere further on to moor.

Approaching Camden top lock

Angela and Dan filling the lock

Harriet and Lola

Crowds of people visiting Camden market

Harriet and Dan

We managed to moor between the top two locks, where we would not hinder other canal traffic, and A, D&H went to have a look at the market, while I watched over the dogs and boat. Camden was teeming with tourists and local residents out to enjoy the sunshine. There was a constant stream of people asking questions about the boat and where we were going. When we were all back together, we had a bite to eat, and then set off for King's Cross, where Dan and Harriet would leave us to return to Ramsgate. We have really enjoyed their company and apart from anything else, Angela will sorely miss the help with the locks!

Meat Porters Sculpture in Kings Cross, identical to the one in Harlow

The canal in King's Cross

A cute bull

D&H wave goodbye from the road bridge near the station

We decided that we would not stay where we were moored, but would press on towards Victoria Park in Hackney where the dogs would have a bit of space to play in.

Late afternoon sun over the canal, just before Islington tunnel

We passed through the 960 yard long Islington tunnel, having waited for a few minutes to let a boat coming the other way come through. You have to look into the tunnel to make sure nothing is coming before entering - you don't want to meet anything 500 yards into the tunnel which is only wide enough for a single boat! We made it out into the sunshine again without incident.

Building in Hackney with faces of residents

Endless inflatable craft to dodge

Interesting mushrooms on office roof

The locks seemed to get more and more crowded with people enjoying themselves with picnics, BBQs, drinking and sunbathing. Every time we needed to do anything to a lock, we had to ask people to move so that we didn't squash them with the boat or knock them down with the beams of the gates. Everyone seemed to be in good spirits, joining in helping with the gates and generally having a good time. We also encountered lots of people bobbing about in inflatable dingies holding glasses of beer or wine and moving haphazardly about the canal! We arrived at Victoria Park, but were unable to find anywhere to moor - it was very crowded with people on land and with boats. So, we decided that we would turn into the Hertford Canal and see if we could stop in a place we had used before. Just before turning, we spotted a space a little further up the river, and here we are for the night. There is some kind of ledge below water and so we have had to deploy our wheelbarrow wheels to hold us away from the bank a bit. There are a lot of people walking about on the bank here at midnight, but hopefully it will quieten down soon. It is still incredibly hot - 27.3c in the boat right now!

Our boat has wheels

Tonight's mooring

Tomorrow, we plan to travel along the Hertford canal to re-join the River Lee and head north towards Harlow.