At large in York

 Moored in the centre of York

After a night of heavy rain, we awoke to a dull, damp morning. The river was quiet with the big trip boats cruising up and down but few other boats moving. After breakfast we headed to the station to pick up our train tickets for our visit home, and then into York to visit the Art Gallery. The city was much busier than yesterday and teeming with tourists, The weather, though windy dried and warmed up and we were able to appreciate some of the lovely architecture.

 York Minster

Next we went toYork Minster which was impressive both in its history and scale. We spent a few hours exploring and took many lovely photos of the stunning windows and features.

 Rowers on the Ouse

There appears to be a protocol on the river with trip boats stopping to allow rowers use during late afternoon and early morning. This crew were very fast as they sped past Banjo as we had coffee in the late afternoon sun on the stern whilst reading the papers and scoffing buscuits.

Looks like hard work

One of the nice things about sitting on the boat, besides feeding the ducks, is meeting lots of interesting people including a charming young musician fron Boston USA who had a chat and helped us identify the Greylag geese who were squabbling over the bread. We are lucky!

The North Pole - well, almost!

 Waiting to be unleashed

Awaking at 05:45, we prepared for the trip up the Ouse on the flood tide. We were unaware that the tide this morning was a particularly high spring tide, and the lock keeper was keen to release us as soon as the tide turned. Today the incoming tide was preceeded by a tidal bore - a wave rushing up the river. As soon as this passed, the lock keeper opened the gates and we could see the water rushing in the opposite direction, complete with loads of debris.

 Early morning surfing

We eased Banjo forward into the current and the river picked us up and pushed us upstream. We accelerated and by the time we passed the first bridge, we were really flying along and about 3 times the usual pace. It was pretty exhilerating, steering around trees and logs, and feeling the effects of violent eddies on bends. The light this morning was beautiful, making for a truly memorable trip. After about 2.5 hours, the tide started to slow and by the time we reached Naburn Locks, we were back to the usual speed.

 Bishopethorpe Palace

We passed several fine properties and loads of fabulous moored boats as we made our way towards York.

 Entering York

The entry into York by river is lovely and it was great to have finally made it here after so much planning and expectation. We cruised up he river which is flanked by some beautiful old buildings and massive bridges, looking for somewhere suitable to moor up for the next couple of days.

 Moored in the centre of York

We found a spot close to the centre and spent ages trying to get Banjo into a position where she wasn't smashing against concrete outcrops as other boats passed. Eventually, we walked up and down the bank and found another spot which was just long enough to get into. Angela stood firmly by the space to claim it while I went back and moved the boat. We managed to get in only to find a drain outlet just beneathe the surface which was scraping the side of the boat. Fortunately an Australian couple turned up and kindly moved their boat along a few feet which meant we could just clear the drain and finally, we were secured.

One of many party boats

We wandered around York in the afternoon so that Angela could establish where Monsoon was! We also had some excellent fish and chips and I had a truly excellent chocolate ice cream! We returned to the boad and watched various craft passing by including lots of rowing crews and an endless succession of large boats filled with party goers. A brilliant day.

Back to sleepy canals - briefly

 Knottingley Colliery

We were awoken this morning by a passing floating crane which produced waves which kept coming for about 20 minutes! We set off, still with Dave and Marie, heading for the junction with the River Aire. En-route, we passed the huge Knottingley Colliery - still appears to be working with large numbers of lorries going to and fro.

 Farewell Dave and Marie

On reaching the junction with the River Aire, we parted company with Dave and Marie, who headed on towards Leeds. We turned right, onto the River Aire, which was much bigger than we were expecting, rivalling the Trent in places. After a few miles, we approached the entrance to the Selby Canal, which is via a flood lock. The guide showed that this was normally open, but as we turned the sharp bend into it, it wasn't and we drifted past. Much rapid reversing against the current ensued and as we were about to reach the bank, another boater kindly got the lock ready for us and we swept in.

 A damsel not in distress

The Selby Canal is much quiter, shallower, narrower and weedier than the commercial waterways we have been on for the past few days. Over the course of the next 5 miles or so, we had to stop about 5 times to remove weed from the prop! For part of the journey we were joined by this damsel fly which clung to my shoulder and then to Angela's hand for quite a while.

The Selby Canal

We reached Selby which marks the end of the Selby Canal and the junction with the River Ouse. We stopped at a boat yard to discuss possible moorings for Banjo while we head back to Harlow next week for a few days. While there, a mechanic had a look at our engine which has started to smoke quite a bit. He declared it good for another few years - he also had the answer to any problems which should befall us - "pull over and make a cup of tea"! We have arranged with the lock keeper at Selby, to go through the lock at 07:30 tomorrow, to meet the flood tide on the Ouse. He also warned us that the River has quite a bit of rubbish in it including fallen trees and dead cows and that we should keep a sharp lookout! So, its back to life jackets, VHF radio and strong currents again! as we head for our most northerly mooring tomorrow night, in York!

Straight Canals and Swing Bridges

Stainforth

After a good nights sleep and woken by a noisy family of ducks we prepared to leave Thorne. We had a walk into the village last night, it was charming, and equally so when I went for a paper this morning. We set off again with Dave and Marie in Nener J in humid and sunny conditions. The canals here are wide and very staight with very open landscapes with some pretty places but mostly open fields.

Crossing the Don Aqueduct

This Aqueduct on the New Junction Canal had forbidding looking large guillotine gates. There were many swing and lift bridges on our route but we worked well with Dave and Marie, to open them in succession.



A massive barge and tug

From the New Junction Canal we met the Aire and Calder Navigation which was strange as from a narrow part of the canal we suddenly saw a large barge go past the end. The barges are huge and create the effect of being at sea as we cross their wake.

Tonight's mooring

After quite a few heavy showers towards the latter part of our day we moored in High Eggborough for the night. The sky was foreboding and it did rain but the sunset was very pretty.



The longest day

Torksey Castle

We got up at 5:30 to catch the morning tide for the run down to Keadby Lock. We set off with two other boats, heading into the incoming tide, making fairly slow progress initially. It was lovely and bright, but with a cool breeze.

I want a faster boat!

We were slowly overtaken by the other two boats, as we decided to keep the engine temperature within reasonable limits. The trip to Keadby was expected to take about 5.5 hours, non-stop. Slowly the tide turned and after about an hour and a half, we were flying along with the outgoing tide pulling us along. The current did odd things to the boat and on a tight bend, we listed voilently as we were caught in a large eddy - very exciting!

Gainsborough waterfront

All the moorings along this stretch of the river are designed for barges and coasters, and they towered above us. We listened out on the VHF radio for messages warning of approaching ships, but fortunately the only one came up behind us and the stopped at Gainsborough.

There are big ships here

We had been in touch with the lock keeper at Keadby so that he would have the lock empty when we arrived. The entrance to the lock is very small with high concrete walls. Not in itself difficult, but when you add the strong current in, it makes for a very tricky manouver. As we and 'Nener J', the blue boat in the earlier photo, came level with the lock, it was shut! The lock keeper was just starting to empty it, and so we had to turn into the current and hold station since there was nowhere to moor up. Sitting there with the engine running at fast cruising speed, but stationery is an odd feeling. Finally the lock was open and we crept forward and then swung the boats at right angles to the current, entering the lock without hitting the walls or each other - phew!

Out of the lock into a swing bridge

The lock is really deep and the keeper dropped a hook on a rope down to us and took our lines up to mooring posts, passing the other end back to us. Once full, the gates opened and we could exit, but only as far as a swing bridge immediately outside the lock. Waiting patiently there was the third boat of our convoy who had been forced to wait for us. Once through we morred up and had a very welcome rest and a sandwich.

Poppies

We stayed in convoy with Dave and Marie on Nener J, passing through several swing bridges and some beautiful open countryside. We have moored for the night in a small town called Thorne, in South Yorkshire - seems a long way from home now.

Riding the tide

One of many power stations we passed

We entered Cromwell lock this morning - the lock is absolutely vast making us feel very small. As we left the lock we looked back at the largest weir on the Trent with a very strong current to contend with. We headed downstream at high tide, and made good progress with the current pushing us along. The wind was whipping up waves which reached about 18 inches high in places - quite exhilerating!

A shag on sentry duty

We tracked our progress closely on Trent charts to ensure we didn't run aground on the many shoals and sunken islands. This shag was sitting on what appeared to be a rock which was in mid stream but not on any of the charts! Most of these birds are pretty timid, but this one stood his ground apparently keen to ensure we saw the rock!

Torsey lock with Banjo in the distance

After about 3 hours we turned across the flow and entered the cut at the entrance to the Fossdyke navigation. The Fossdyke was apparently dug by Hadrian in 120AD - an incredible feat. The lock at Torksey is complicated in two ways - the mechanisms are pretty unique, and there are two sets of opposing gates to cope with the variation in river levels.

Moored on floating pontoon in the sunshine

We are moored on floating pontoons which go up and down with the tide - we are about 3 feet higher this evening than we were when we arrived.

Sheltered mooring for the night

We had originally planned to set off at 10am Tuesday to meet the high tide at Keadby, but the keeper at Cromwell lock told us that the lock at Keadby would be unmanned in the afternoon and so we would need to set off at 07:30! Having spoken to other boaters at Torksey and to the lock keeper, this has changed again due to sand build up at Keadby, and we now plan to set off at 07:00 - an early night tonight!

Large Locks and Heavy Rain

Banjo is on the right behind the other narrow boat

The morning dawned bright and sunny with a chilly breeze. After a cooked breakfast we wandered off to Morrisons where we bought a few more provisions- shame we have little room on the boat! Graham lost the shopping trolley during our excitement in being in such a large supermarket and had to retrace steps to find it. On our return with the shopping late morning it had started to spit with rain and so we decided to try to make it to Cromwell Lock before it worstened.

Newark castle

British Waterways craft moored at Cromwell Lock

Angela by the truly enourmous Cromwell Lock

The weather did worsten fairly dramatically- very wet and windy. We found a good mooring on a pontoon which has a tap and electric hook up - luxury! We went and had a chat with the lock keepers who were very helpful and then retreated back to the boat with a newly purchased electricity card to batton down the hatches and read the Sunday papers.

Tonight's very wet view

What a difference a day makes - it's is more like November than June! Thanks for all your communications. Hi to Ray and June who are following our travels from Canada. Also a mention to the delightful Stacey and Elliot, two inspired young people, who stopped to chat to us in Newark. Good luck to you both with your future ambitions.

You don't see a castle for ages then .....

 White water at Holme Pierrpoint

We awoke at Home Lock to blue skies and noise bankside. Considering we were moored against a concrete quay which was the height of the roof of the boat I went to investigate and discovered a group of geese and ducks looking down at me. We walked down to investigate the lock before it opened at 9.30 and watched canoeists at the British Squad training site.

 These locks are big!

Fortunately the locks have keepers between 9.30 and 5pm. We came through with a friendly bunch of people on a variety of shapes and sizes of boats and chatted to the crew on a lovely Dutch Barge called Anja.

 In convoy with Anja on the Trent

 It's sunnier today

Graham sneaked this one in whilst we were waiting to enter Castle Lock in Newark.

Our view from the window tonight

We are so lucky to have some lovely places to moor. This is the view from Banjo and it is lovely and all lit up tonight. Tomorrow we will head for Cromwell Lock, weather permitting, the last lock before the 45 miles of tidal trent and life jackets - eek!